Miracle Products Int'l. Dealer and Distributor Site

VAN'S INSTANT GUN BLUE   

When C.S. Van Gorden invented this product, way back in 1941, he had no idea that it would become the Gunsmith's "Trade-Secret" for touch-up.

The Army Corps of Engineers used it for rustproofing machine parts that will stand in salt water in the Gulf of Mexico. Tool and Die makers used it for pattern blanks so that lines scribed into the metal were exact with no chipping ...and a few local hobbyists used it for gun bluing.

The emphasis has changed since then,but the product is still made the same way by his grandson in Bloomer,Wisconsin.

If you have tried "cold-blue" products, you know they have several main flaws... A) They stink B) They don't match factory blue C) They wear off in a very short time ... and D) They rust quite easily.

The solution!

Van's Instant Gun Blue penetrates the steel; rust proofs it and blues it quickly and easily, matching into the existing bluing seamlessly. There is practically no odor (and that disappears permanently when oil is applied). By following the simple directions, no secondary rust will appear, and the durability is unbelievable!

Since 1980, Miracle Products has supplied this extraordinary product to gunsmiths, hobbyists, collectors, craftsmen, and first time gun owners...throughout the entire 50 states, and even into 5 foreign countries! Why haven't you heard about it? Because most of our dealers are gunsmiths who make far more money USING it rather than SELLING it! You may see us at one of the 45 to 50 gunshows we do across the country each year, but now you have a 24-hour source...right here!

A 4 oz. bottle will completely blue about 3 full-sized firearms, or touch-up as many as 30 rifles, shotguns, and handguns. Full instructions are included.

Available on our shopping cart page under "Products for Metal"

Also Available in Quarts (excellent for bluing entire barrels from raw metal)

Gallons (for the truly busy gun shop!)

To purchase click here: (Registered)      (UnRegistered)

A complete set of instructions follows:

Degrease:  Before you begin bluing, make sure to degrease with a good solvent.  If you purchased the bluing kit, a bottle of “CitriGun” was included as a degreaser.  Alternatively, you may use a good solvent such as M.E.K., Acetone, Brake cleaner, or clear PVC pipe cleaner (not the purple stuff).  Wash the weapon thoroughly with your degreaser.  If the weapon is extremely dirty, use a hair dryer to heat the metal and open the pores before degreasing.    If after applying the bluing, you see spotting, or light areas, try changing to another degreaser.  Some synthetics can not be cut by all solvents, i.e.:  If you are using an Acetone, switch to a Keytone, if you’re using “CitriGun” try switching to the PVC pipe cleaner, etc…  No solvent or cleaner will remove 100% of the synthetics 100% of the time. Wipe dry, then proceed to step two: Bluing.

 

Bluing: After the Weapon is thoroughly degreased apply the Van’s Instant Gun Blue. To Restore: If surface rust is present – wash metal with fine steel wool dipped into the bluing. Proceed to bluing steps below. To Repair: Fix texture (scratches, pits, etc.) by sanding or steel wooling until you match the surrounding area. * The more exact the match in texture – the more perfect the bluing!  Apply the bluing and rub it in, keeping it wet. Always apply with a soft bristle toothbrush.  Cotton swabs, paper towels and cloth contain lanolin, dyes, perfumes, etc., and may prevent the bluing from working to your satisfaction. The object is to soak the bluing in for 3 to 5 minutes. The longer you soak it the darker it gets. If you stop too soon, you can apply more. If any “spotting” occurs, rub the area with #0000 steel wool dipped in the bluing, wipe off and reapply bluing with a toothbrush. When you achieve the desired color, wipe dry with a paper towel, and neutralize by rubbing in a petroleum-based oil. (Not WD-40, or other synthetics…they don’t neutralize the acid!) We suggest “Supr-Fine” available from MPI, but any petroleum-based oil will suffice.

 

Top coat wax:  This can’t be stressed enough:  Wax Your Gun!!  It may sound out of step to what you’re used to hearing but have you ever heard someone say:  “I oiled it, put it in the closet, pulled it out a week later and it was rusted!  But I oiled it!!”  Oil floats on water…wax doesn’t.  If you apply a thin coat of wax over your barrels, they won’t rust even if ya drop ‘em in salt water!  We now carry a liquid style carnauba called “TopIt” that is tough enough to stand up to 100° saltwater, and even fresh blood, and is still flexible enough to be used on stocks.  Take a small amount of wax (just a drop for one side of the barrel) and buff onto your weapon.  Allow the wax to haze up and then buff off with a soft cloth.  That’s all there is to it.   When taking a weapon into the field, apply another light coat to ensure that the wax is performing at peak. To remove the wax for other repairs, Alcohol will dissolve it safely.

Hints & Tips

·        Heating a barrel up (hair dryer) will speed up the bluing process. Prime Temp. 90-140F

·        Parts may also be dipped as opposed to washing on. Check after 2-3 minutes. Too long creates pitting.

·        This bluing reacts to ferrous metal only.  Will not work on alloys or aluminum.

·        Texture shows.  Rough = dull   Glass beaded = satin   Smooth = shiny

·        Do not use “Break Free” or metal polishes over any gun blue.  They remove both metal and bluing.  Bluing may be buffed with fine steel wool to brighten (#0000).

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